Travel is life; it's never too late.

                                                                                          
I met Laurence of Gravel Down Wines on a rainy Friday afternoon, when he brought his wines into the shop to taste. I was instantly intrigued that they were made from fruit grown in the proximity of the Oratia. Most people don't think of West Auckland as a notable wine producing area, but it is a very significant in the foundation of New Zealand's wine industry and currently with superstars like Kumeu River.  

Gravel Down is a passion project of Laurence and partner Rebecca. The brand was born from their experiences, working and traveling in Europe.  They focus on local crops, being family run, and small-batch production.

The wines result from gentle, thoughtful and hands-on winemaking. Rebecca takes care of bottling and labelling and, together with the help of whānau and friends, they hand-harvest all fruit. It's a cozy family affair, producing superb wines out of a renovated Kauri barn. Not only are these serious wines, but the packaging is slick and beautiful, and the value is excellent.

Martin’s Travels (Well, not this time…)


 

Usually, this section of the newsletter is titled 'Martin’s Travels'. This time however, it was my turn - Tristan went to South Korea.
Why South Korea? Well, I’ve always had an affinity for Korean food, history and culture.

When most people think of travelling to East Asia, Japan is usually the go-to. Japan is awesome—don’t get me wrong—but South Korea has a lot to offer. I recommend considering it for your next East Asia trip.

Now, South Korea is not exactly known for its viticulture, but it boasts a contagious coffee/café culture and an emerging craft beer scene. And of course, there’s Soju and the sweeter, tamer Makgeolli. I’ll touch on my food and beverage experiences during my travels trying not to  sound like a travel guide.

Seoul: The City of Stories

I love cities—they fascinate me, especially when they have a history as vast as Seoul. From the moment I jumped on the airport limousine (a snug, fancy bus), there was an energy in this city I hadn’t felt in a long time.

Rice paddies, high-rises for miles, and mountain ranges to the north and south watch over Seoul like guardian beasts. I was excited about the stories I would uncover - and share with you.

Once you enter Seoul proper, every street and alley - despite the chaotic tangle of power lines - seems to whisper a story. I couldn’t explore them all in two weeks, but I’ll be back.

Let's Talk About Coffee

In New Zealand, we brew a great cup of joe, but Koreans take it to the next level. Some of my favourite cafés in Auckland are Korean-owned, so it wasn’t a surprise that the local scene was incredible.

Like most developed countries, you’ll see familiar coffee chains everywhere: Paris Baguette, Mega Coffee, Ediya, and of course, Starbucks. The coffee isn’t terrible—just convenient. I won’t lie, I caved once or twice (but never Starbucks!).

In Korea, coffee is more than a morning pick-me-up. It’s social, ceremonial, and pairs with elaborate cakes and desserts. For me, it was morning, afternoon, and late afternoon—so many cafés, so little time.

A Few Quick Coffee Tips:

• Flat whites aren’t a thing.

• You’ll always be asked: hot or cold?

• Return your tray and dishes after use (unless you’re taking away).

• Coffee is 커피 (keo-pi) in Korean.

Tristan’s Must-Go Cafés in Seoul

Jesus Coffee

Yes, I went in for the name—and stayed for the novelty waffles. What better companion to a cup of coffee than a freshly made waffle doused in cream and chocolate?

The branded red mug was fantastic—I wish I could’ve taken one home.

The owner, a spirited woman, may have been a reincarnated disciple judging by the amount of religious paraphernalia. But the coffee and waffles - absolutely divine.
                     

Kotton

I found Kotton during my pre-trip research. Nestled in Insadong, among hanok-style buildings, Kotton is a modern café with big glass doors and a peaceful garden vibe.

Well, not totally peaceful—conversations buzzed around like a social symphony.
If you’re in Insadong (and you will be), make sure to stop by Kotton.

4 Oz Day Coffee Roasters

Okay. If you're in Seoul, this one is non-negotiable. I went three times.

Why?

• It reminded me of home.

• The staff were incredibly welcoming.

• The coffee was excellent.

I greeted the barista—Peter, the owner—in Korean, and he replied, “G’day mate.”
I giggled and was relieved not to have to butcher more Korean.

Peter, a Seoul native, worked in Melbourne’s coffee scene before bringing the Aussie café vibe back home. He now runs 4 Oz Day in Jongno.
                       

There’s so much passion here. They roast beans from multiple origins, and I even got to attend a cupping session for Taiwanese coffee; a first for me.

The café is contemporary and cozy, dotted with succulents, coffee books, and Aussie memorabilia (flag, kangaroo soft toy, etc.).

Their signature blend? The Nutty Kangaroo. Absolutely banging.
Also—it’s one of the few places in Seoul where you can get a proper flat white.

Please go. Peter and the team are the best, and so is their coffee.

Beer, Makgeolli, and Soju

People are surprised when I mention the number of craft beer bars I visited—about six in total. South Korea is producing some excellent craft beer, often available in cans to take away. Prices? Very reasonable.

FYI: The Korean word for bar/pub is hof.

Now, Soju—the iconic Korean rice spirit. To be honest, unless it’s consumed in a communal meal scenario, like Korean BBQ, the cheaper stuff is not pleasant. Still, it’s part of the experience.

Luckily, I found a few premium/artisan brands that drank more like new-make spirits—distilled from rice, barley, tapioca, or blends. They cost around $80–$100 NZD and sadly don’t leave South Korea. That needs to change.

My recommendation?
Hwayo – around $20 NZD. It's great quality and does not break the bank. Not available in New Zealand yet, but fingers crossed.

On a lighter note: Makgeolli, a sweet-and-sour fermented rice drink traditionally enjoyed on rainy days with pajeon (green onion pancakes). It’s popular among younger Koreans—low ABV (5%), sweet, and affordable.

Personally, I prefer the $5-10 bottles from the convenience stores and supermarkets over the ‘premium’ brands, which tasted more like sourdough starter than a balanced beverage.

Quick tip: Shake the bottle before pouring! Otherwise, the liquid separates, and you won’t get the full flavour until the end       

So, I’ll be heading home to the States next month for a few weeks and, in anticipation of that, I figured I’d dive into American whiskey. When I return, I’ll focus more on American Craft beer and the emerging and only recently legally codified category of American Single Malt, but this time we’ll keep it to the classics and discuss: What’s Rye?

   Well, in the American context, Rye is whiskey made with at least 51% Rye in its mashbill, aged in new and charred American oak. (And fitting in with a few more legal constraints). There are a few different styles of Rye in the US, as it was one of the first spirits to be produced in the country. Rye grew (and still does) well in the northeast, as it’s hardy enough to survive the intense winters. Before truly becoming a product, rye would have just been produced for home consumption.  Perhaps farmers were trying to avoid grain spoilage and excess grain would be made into whiskey. The first strong regional variation of Rye to develop was 'Monongahela Rye' in Pennsylvania, named after the Monongahela river that the distilleries grew up around. Conditions were less conducive to growing wheat or corn, so rye and barley ended up being the principle ingredients, and rye percentages of the mashbill were commonly around 90%. Like many spirits, this style of rye was killed off by Prohibition and didn’t really return into the market until the past decade or two. Even major brands of the region and era like Michters have been moved and rebranded as Kentucky Bourbon brands. Unfortunately this is a style that is hard to come by, and nearly impossible to find in New Zealand. 

The more common style is the style that re-emerged out of Kentucky alongside bourbon’s resurgence. This is the style that will typically have less rye, around the 51% legal minimum, and have a higher percentage of corn. This is not always the case, but for what we’re able to get in New Zealand it rings true for 80% of products. This style tends to be a bit more approachable to people who have more of a bourbon palette, as the spice characteristics of the rye are less pronounced. It’s also easier to produce, as making a mash from rye can prove difficult. 
 Anyway, enough history on to what rye tends to be. There will tend to be some flavour overlap with bourbon as they both need to be aged in new American Oak barrels. This will lend to vanilla, caramel, coconut, and some woodier spice characters. Rye itself will bring with it more herbal notes such as mint, eucalyptus, and sometimes dill, as well as spices, like cinnamon, nutmeg, and cardamom, as well as more aromatic spices like aniseed, caraway, and liquorice. Corn will lend some sweetness and grain character to the mix and malted barley is there for some body. 

 Next month I’ll be visiting the esteemed Maryland Rye distillery, Sagamore, in Baltimore. I’ll bring back some more facts about rye next month.