Domaine de la Pépière - Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2022

Marc Ollivier began Domaine de la Pepiere in 1984, as the property grew in size and stature he took on first local boy Rémi Branger and then former intern Gwénaëlle Croix. Marc retired in 2019, leaving Rémi and Gwen to continue his legacy.

It would be easy to describe Domaine de
la Pépière as radical for its region. Muscadet, situated on the western edge of the Loire, where the river meets the Atlantic ocean, is a grape growing region historically dominated by an industrial, négociant based, wine making system that values quantity over everything. Grape prices are low, the wines cheap and (at best!) forgettable.

From the beginning la Pépière took a different path. Low yields, old vines, hand harvesting, single vineyard terroir specific wines, wild yeast fermentation, and long
and slow (up to four-five years) maturation
of wines on lees. As time went on and Rémi and Gwen added their own influence, La Pépière converted to organic and eventually biodynamic farming. Today, a very small amount of SO2 at bottling is the only addition to the wine. The viticultural and wine making decisions at la Pépière are entirely practical, motivated by a desire to make the best possible wines that speak of their place.
The fact that they fit comfortably within the

parameters of the natural wine world is neither here nor there for Gwen and Rémi.

As much as the drive to make great wine sets la Pépière apart, far from representing a radical departure, they have for a long time been heavily invested in telling what they believe is the true story of Muscadet. Marc especially was instrumental in the formation of several ‘Cru Communale’ designations within the formal AOC system of the region.This dedication
to having the unique terroirs of their region recognised, and the meticulous way with which they work as winegrowers, is for them a direct response to the quality of Muscadet as a place to grow wine. They would prefer to think that their approach is not an anomaly, but rather a setting of standards appropriate to their region.

The wines themselves are a delight, especially for lovers of lively, focused, exceptionally mineral driven wines. If you love the best of Chablis, these wines are for you. It is, luckily for us, only the particularities of the region that keep them incredibly affordable. Some of my favourite wines to drink, exceptionally age worthy, and unbeatable value for money.